Meet Master Sommelier
Written by Lindsey Chronert
My first friend in the Santa Cruz college dorms was a guy that lived across the hall from me named Jay. He had long curly hair, wire-rimmed glasses and always wore Birkenstocks, sometimes with socks. We bonded quickly in those first few days over cheap alcohol and rap music. The quintessential beginning of most college memories. The following year, Jay moved into a large farmhouse in Felton where we started to spend most of our time. We listened to the originals that 2-Pac, Jay-Z and Kanye were sampling and made playlists with Marvin Gaye, Al Green, James Brown, and Elton John.
In that big house, we learned to cook and started drinking wine and craft beer. Jay worked at an Italian restaurant in town and would come home with bottles of red wine to share. Every once in a while, we’d host a big family dinner with our homies and serve up grilled sausages, fresh bread, chimichurri, hearty salads, roasted veggies, and lots of wine. After dinner, we’d invite everyone else over, turn up our latest Limewire playlist and roll out a keg of Red Hook. I look back on those days with such fondness. We laid the foundation of the adults we wanted to become. Not much has changed since then. We still love a good playlist, welcoming friends over for a home-cooked meal and sharing bottles of delicious wine. In fact, we’ve both made careers out of this passion. And now I’m the one who wears socks with her Birks.
My dear friend Jay now goes by Jeremiah Morehouse is a Master Sommelier and the Wine Director at one of the most iconic restaurants in San Francisco, Nopa. He’s one of twenty five people in the last five years who has been given the Master Sommelier title, which is quite an incredible accomplishment. (I had to Google that. Jay is much too humble.) I sat down with my dear friend to see what else he has to teach me, wine, music or otherwise.
How did you find yourself here, in this career?
Honestly, it all began in college when I was 21 years old. Working in restaurants in Santa Cruz, I started to develop an interest in beverages. I was given an opportunity to help open a new restaurant, In Vino Veritas, which means “in wine, there is truth”. There, the owner Luca pushed me to start learning about wine, or find another gig.
How did you get such a good palate?
I don't have the sharpest palate in the world. There are other Sommeliers that are naturally more gifted at tasting than I am. But I’ve worked hard and trained hard, just like a professional athlete would, to hone my skills and be excellent in my craft.
What are you listening to right now?
Well, as a child born in the 80's, 90's era hip-hop is still some of my favorite, although I have more than a few friends who question my tastes. All things considered, I try and be open-minded and eclectic. From Paul Simon to the Chainsmokers, and of course all the cool stuff that I don't have any clue who the artist is.
And more importantly, what are you drinking?
Call me an old soul, but the classics are classics for a reason. Champagne, Burgundy (white & red), Northern Rhone Syrah. And I can never forget about some of my first loves, Italian wines. On the newer trends, I love what's happening in places like South Africa, Chile and Galicia in Northwestern Spain. Don't think I don't love my California wines though, so many awesome people doing amazing things on small scale that deserve more attention… even if that means the wines become harder for me to get my hands on.
What's your personal wine philosophy?
I think Rule #1 should always be to be a personal wine expert. Know what you like and what you don't, and be open to try something new if the opportunity comes along. You love Pinot Noir, fantastic. Maybe tomorrow you try a Cru Beaujolais or a Barbera from Piedmont or a red from Mt. Etna in Sicily? Wine is about bringing people together, sharing and having some fun. It’s not to be an elite luxury item we fawn over.
There’s a big trend towards natural wine. Where do you see this going? And what are your general thoughts on natural wine?
Natural wine is a great thing, I respect it as a category but sometimes I think it gets a little stretched into an excuse. Don't let someone who did a poor job making wine claim that it tastes off because it's "natural". I'm happy to see the trend growing as it's important to be respectful towards what we put in our bodies and how that translates into how we take care of our planet.
What new trend are you intrigued by?
Not exactly a new trend, but "Orange" wine, or skin contacted white wines, is something I can get behind. When done right, they can be fantastic and exciting, and most importantly super versatile with all kinds of foods. A trend I'd like to see is one of a domestic lense, in that we too often view Champagne/Sparkling wines as that reserved for celebrations. They are great ways to start a meal, any meal, and furthermore can be beautiful compliments throughout any meal as well. If you haven't had fried chicken and champagne yet, or a deep Lambrusco with cured meats on a sunny day, well, now’s your time.
What is your "last meal" wine?
Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1978, which I’ve had before and it’s just my favorite. I’ve always wanted to try the Ridge Vineyards Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1971, so maybe I’ll have that one before I say my farewell.
